Late Tuesday morning, a surfer thought to be in his 40s was pronounced dead at Surfrider State Beach in Malibu, after being pulled from the water unconscious. The Malibu Times reported that lifeguards had warned the man that conditions were increasingly rough, and for skilled surfers only, and that the man had drowned after being held under for a long period in the shore break.
The cause of death, however, was not confirmed. Laird Hamilton , a legendary big-wave surfer, helped rescue a stranded surfer Wednesday at Malibu. The swell continued to build through Wednesday. Several piers were closed, either due to damage or merely as a precaution. In some areas, minor coastal flooding was associated with the swell and high tide. But the focus, for many, was on the big surf, and nowhere was this as apparent was at the Wedge, where a circus-like atmosphere prevailed.
One city official placed the crowd at between 3, and 4, A body surfer rides a smaller wave at the Wedge in Newport Beach on Thursday, August 19, , as a big swell from the southern hemisphere moves on to Orange County beaches. The expert-only Wedge saw a handful of wave riders who braved the foot plus surf, with a high tide pushing ocean water up the sand to the surprise of spectators who scrambled to safety as the sets raced onto the shore.
The swell, one of the biggest so far this summer, also sent salt water into parking lots at Aliso Beach in South Laguna and Capistrano Beach in Dana Point. Be sure to stay off rock jetties and tide pools, as the strong surf and high tide can send waves sweeping over them and can knock people off the structures.
The Wedge is a world-famous, unique surf spot unintentionally spawn from a rock jetty built by the U. Army Corps of Engineers in as part of the Newport Harbor entrance. The big rocks are extremely slippery because they're always being hit by the waves, not to mention that getting pounded into rocks by powerful waves can be very hazardous to your health and well-being.
In fact, many surfers have been injured and a few have even died in the harsh and unforgiving sea that creates The Wedge. Despite the danger, surfers come out and take on the waves here throughout the season. If you want to catch the largest waves at this Newport Beach surf spot, the best times of year to visit are summer and fall. This is when the winds, tides, and other ocean conditions are ideal for surfing the big waves. You'll also need to be aware of the blackball flag.
When they raise this flag, it means that only bodysurfing is permitted, so no board surfing of any kind will be allowed. The flag will be up from 10 a. During this time, you can take the opportunity to study how the waves form and break. Doing so will help you take them on with more confidence and knowledge. Having the right surfboard is also key, so take a look at these five surfboards you have just got to try.
Who Should Surf The Wedge? Knowing how dangerous and risky it can be to surf The Wedge, it may seem obvious that this break should be reserved for the wave rider who's had a lot of time and experience riding big waves in a variety of conditions. Because it's one of the more difficult locations on the West Coast to surf , it's best left to the experts.
Professional surfers who have been known to catch some gnarly waves at this dangerous big-wave surf spot include:. Jamie O'Brien from Hawaii. Blair Conklin from California. Brad Kuhn from Florida. Brandon Clarke from Canada. Regardless of the fact that this ride can be dangerous even to the most skilled wave riders, many beginner and intermediate surfers can be seen taking on the challenge.
Always be aware of the surf conditions and other surfers before heading out into the huge waves found breaking at The Wedge.
For those who prefer to watch from the shore, this is a great place to catch some incredible surfing action.
0コメント