After polishing single stage paint:. Thanks very much for this info and this was very helpful. When I purchased my xp and pads, I only purchased the Meguires since it seemed like a good general starting point. Is this ok to start with and see how it looks, or do you recommend another product to start with?
Keep in mind that even though the paint is old on the , the defects swirl marks, light scratches on both cars do not appear to be bad, but are noticeable in the right lighting. Megs is a great product to start with. It has light to medium cutting ability, and it finishes down very nicely too.
Would you contrast the differences between Menzema fa and M or M and Menzema power finish. I guess I am asking which are the least aggresive out of these product lines. Menzerna FA has the least cut out of those mentioned.
Both M and Power Finish work well as medium cut one-step polish with the ability to finish down very nicely. Power Finish is the more aggressive of the two, and may require a lighter polish afterwards if used on a soft, darker colored vehicle. M is the most aggressive of the 4, and it requires the use of a final polish such as M or FA afterwards. Todd, after quite a bit of reading , as a beginner ,would Menzerna po85rd be a choice where minimal correction is needed?
I have only CCS pads presently,so would you suggest starting with a black pad ,followed by white if the cut was not adequate? Trying a black pad first and then stepping up to a white one if necessary is a good plan of attack. Todd I am extremely reluctant to power buff and polish my single stage painted Porsche S2. Can you recommend a product to take out some light scratches and swirls by hand?
I polished a 95 nissan SE-R, single stage black. Came out great, but after about 2 months, it started to oxidase. What is the best protection for single stage paint? How often do I have to protect it? Resurrecting this post to ensure the path I am going to follow: I have a Land Rover 2A with the original Poppy Red paint that has probably never been corrected in its life.
I want to give it a light polish to remove oxidation and bring the color back to life. However, there are rock chips along the front, and a couple of chips along the rear quarters, will a polish expand on these rock chips, and how delicate will 50 year old single stage paint be? Utilizing a Torq10Fx, was thinking Menzerna and trying an assortment of pads. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a Toyota pickup that I just painted with single stage red paint.
Charles — Thank you for the message! I would recommend following the steps listed in this article. Something like a Lake Country White Foam Pad and the Sonax EX is a great light polishing combination that will help remove imperfections in the paint. If you need to pump up the power, use the Lake Country Orange Foam Pad and the Menzerna , just be sure to follow up with the light correction option to remove any compounding haze and finish the paint down. Once you remove the imperfections, you will be left with a surface with clarity that you can top with a protective layer to add more gloss.
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Absolute News Manager uses several text tags to define the layout of your articles, To See this template without being parsed by Absolute News Manager, click here. Working with single stage paint relies on all the same principles as working on a modern 2-stage base clear, however, there are a few key things to know before you start with that old paint.
Single stage paints include all the necessary chemicals in the mix to complete the painting process in one step, eliminating the need for a clear coat on top.
Most modern cars use a two-stage process of applying the base color, followed up by several layers of clear coat. The benefit of a single stage paint is really about speed. Because of the decreased amount of material and increased speed, this often makes single stage paint a less expensive option than a two-stage paint.
That may or may not apply to the stuff you used and it may just be an old wives' tale, so take it for what it's worth! I need to look into that. Base clear is supposed to be was ready in 7 days, urethane in 60 days. Have no idea about rustoleum and valspar. Angry: my fear is that ill find a way to screw up the one completed panel and have to redo it Sooo satisfying.
You'll need to log in to post. Log in. Login Digital Edition Buy a Subscription. Forums » Grassroots Motorsports » Wetsanding and buffing single stage paint.
Ive had smootger asphalt than my driveway paint job turned out. Its BAD. All my own doimg. Im still in step 1 on body panel 1, which has heavy orange peel and a few fisheyes. All I know is the wipe method. You could spray a light coat of a contrasting paint on it, but that might be a bit extreme. In reply to aircooled : That gives me an idea!
I wet sanded an ZJ cherokee. By hand. My arms felt better after a week haha. Keep a bucket of soapy water handy, lubes the ride when sanding. Where I do use tape is the ridge or body lines. In reply to frenchyd : Would it make sense to untape the edges when i get to or grit and then sand them? Dusterbdmichael said: In reply to frenchyd : Would it make sense to untape the edges when i get to or grit and then sand them?
In reply to Dusterbdmichael : Honestly that looks pretty friggin smooth to me. Im working at it slowly on conference calls and webinars today. In reply to Dusterbdmichael : i would do one panel to completion just to dangle a carrot in front of myself, then do the rest of the car one stage at a time.
In reply to Dusterbdmichael : I don't know much about the topic and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night, but I seem to recall that the last automotive paint that I sprayed indicated in the instructions to not apply any wax for about 6 months so that the paint could fully outgas. In reply to wae : Oooo. Jump To The latest Acura takes wraps off forthcoming Integra Do we like it or not?
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